Squarebody Body Panel Guide: Fenders, Doors, and Hood Replacement

Quick answer: On a 1973-1987 squarebody truck, the front fenders, doors, and hood are the largest and most visible body panels, and this squarebody body panels guide covers all three. Reproduction panels are available for each, and a full front end refresh, new fenders, a new hood, and straight doors, rivals a full respray. Most of these panels bolt on with basic hand tools and need no welding.

Below you will find squarebody body panel availability, fitment by year and cab, what fails on each panel, how to remove and align them, and the mistakes that lead to bad panel gaps. The same bolt-on panels serve 2WD (C) and 4WD (K) trucks and the 10, 20, and 30 series, since drivetrain and tonnage do not change the front sheet metal.

Squarebody Body Panel Availability

One of the great advantages of the squarebody restoration market is the availability of reproduction body panels. When these trucks were first reaching collector status in the early 2010s, the reproduction panel market was thin. Today virtually every common rust-prone panel is available as a new reproduction made to OEM specifications. This makes full body restorations practical in a way that was not possible even a decade ago.

Front Fenders

The front fenders on 1973-87 squarebody trucks bolt to the firewall, the inner fender structure, and the front of the cab. They are not welded; replacement is a bolt-off, bolt-on procedure that requires no special tools or skills. This makes front fender replacement one of the more accessible squarebody body repairs even for builders without welding experience. Correct side-specific panels are available, such as the 1973-80 front fender, right and the 1973-80 front fender, left.

Common Fender Issues

• Lower rear corner rust: The area behind the wheel arch at the lower rear of the fender is a common rust location. Water thrown by the front tire collects here.
• Stone chips and dents: The leading edge and the area ahead of the wheel opening take constant stone chips.
• Accident damage: Front fenders are often the first panels to be damaged in minor impacts.

Fender Fitment Notes

The 1973-1980 and 1981-1987 squarebody trucks use different front fenders because of the front end redesign in 1981. Chevy and GMC trucks share the same fender; the front end styling difference between the two brands is in the grille and headlight bezels, not the fenders. Confirm only the year range (1973-1980 vs 1981-1987) when ordering replacement fenders.

Hood Replacement

The squarebody hood is a large panel that typically develops surface rust on the inside surface, at the hinges, and along the front edge. Dents from hail, impacts with the latch mechanism, or physical damage from overhanging objects are also common. A new hood with a fresh paint job makes the entire front end of the truck look renewed.

Hood Removal

Have a helper hold the hood before removing the hinge bolts; an unsupported hood can swing down and cause injury or damage. Disconnect the hood latch cable and any wiring for underhood lights if equipped. Remove the hinge-to-hood bolts (not the hinge-to-firewall bolts) to free the hood. Transfer the hinges to the new hood before installation.

Replacement hoods for squarebody trucks are available in the factory standard flat profile. The hood latch, springs, and hinges are often reused if they are in good condition, or replaced with new hardware. A weak or broken 1981-87 hood hinge spring is a common reason a hood will not hold itself up and is an easy fix while the hood is off.

Door Replacement and Repair

Squarebody truck doors are heavy, solid steel panels. Complete door replacement is less common than door skin replacement, but may be required if the door inner structure is rusted or if the door has been badly damaged in a collision.

Door Skin vs. Complete Door

A door skin is the outer sheet metal panel welded to the door inner structure. If the inner structure is solid but the outer skin is rusted or dented, a door skin replacement is the more cost-effective repair. The skin welds along the folded flange at the bottom and sides of the door, and the fold-over edge at the bottom is re-formed with a body hammer and dolly after the new skin is in position.

Complete replacement doors are available for squarebody trucks as well. A complete door includes both the inner structure and the outer skin. If the window regulator, inner brace, or hinge mounting points are damaged beyond repair, a complete door replacement may be more practical than rebuilding the inner structure.

Door Alignment

Getting door gaps correct after replacement requires patience. The hinges allow adjustment in and out, forward and back, and up and down. Adjust the hinges first to center the door in the opening with consistent gaps on all four sides. Then adjust the striker plate so the door latches firmly without rattling. A correctly aligned squarebody door should swing smoothly, have consistent gaps, and latch solidly on the first push.

Quarter Panels and Bed Sides

The rear quarters on a squarebody regular cab truck are small panels behind the rear door opening above the frame rail. On extended cab trucks the rear quarters are larger. Bed sides, the outer metal walls of the truck bed, are separate from the cab quarter panels and are one of the more commonly replaced panels on trucks with bed rust. A rusted-out Fleetside front bed panel or rear bedside patch can be addressed without replacing the whole bed side.

Bed side replacement on a squarebody typically requires removing the bed from the frame. The bed side welds to the front and rear bed panels and is spot-welded along the floor and cross-sill flanges. Reproductions are available for both Fleetside (flat-sided) and Stepside (fender-box) bed configurations.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Tightening bolts before aligning: Fender and door bolt holes are slotted. Lock everything down too early and the gaps will never line up.
• Ordering the wrong generation: 1973-1980 and 1981-1987 fenders do not interchange. Verify the year range first.
• Replacing a whole bed side for a small rust hole: A patch panel is often the smarter, cheaper repair.
• Reusing a tired hood hinge spring: A fresh spring keeps the hood up safely while you work.

Product Recommendations

• Front Fender, Right (1973-80) – OEM-dimension bolt-on replacement fender.
• Front Fender, Left (1973-80) – matching left-side fender.
• Hood Hinge Spring, Right (1981-87) – replacement spring to hold the hood open.
• Fleetside Front Bed Panel (1985-87) – front bed panel for Fleetside beds.
• All Body Panels – complete body panel catalog for 1973-87 squarebody trucks.

Related Guides

• Squarebody rocker panel replacement guide
• Squarebody rust repair panels buyers guide
• Squarebody model years guide (1973-1987)
• Fitment or ordering questions? See our FAQ.

Final Recommendation

For a comprehensive front end refresh without welding, replacing the fenders, hood, and grille as a package is the most impactful body work you can do on a squarebody in a weekend. The bolt-on nature of squarebody front fenders makes this accessible to builders of any skill level. Pair the panel replacement with fresh paint and the truck looks like a new restoration rather than a 40-year-old work truck.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do squarebody front fenders need welding?

No. The front fenders on squarebody trucks are bolt-on panels; they attach to the firewall, inner fender structure, and door opening with bolts and screws. No welding is required. This makes them one of the most accessible major body panel replacements on any vehicle.

Are squarebody doors the same for all years?

The regular cab squarebody uses the same basic door opening dimensions across the full 1973-87 run, but the door glass, window regulator, and some hardware changed between sub-years. Complete replacement doors are year-range specific. Confirm the exact year and cab style when ordering.

How do I get panel gaps right after installing a new fender?

Squarebody front fender bolt holes are slotted to allow adjustment. Leave all the mounting bolts loose until the fender is positioned correctly, then snug them up in sequence. Aim for consistent gaps between the fender and the door, the fender and the hood, and the fender and the front bumper area. A common tip is to use strips of cardboard as gap spacers to set even gaps before tightening.